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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    They would do exactly the same as BMW pre sale - nothing. My experience of buying AUC is that they let the customer find the faults.
  2. 2 points
    740mick

    Ford Reminiscing

    I remember as a boy of about 10 yrs old my dad talking about changing the family car,we went to the garage that he always used and the choice was either a year old Cortina 2000E or a brand new Marina 1.8,I can still feel the disappointment when he chose the Marina, He did redeem himself a few years later by buying one of the first Mk5 Cortinas.
  3. 1 point
    JoeHorner

    Finally stopped lurking!

    Been reading around here for the past couple of years on & off since we picked up a '93 build ('94 reg) 525 TD auto with 2 previous owners (one of them for about 3 months!) and 65k miles on the clock. It's now on 83k miles and, having just replaced the top & centre injector pump seals with help from various posts here I figured it was time to break cover and say Hi I'm Joe, I'm a watchmaker on Anglesey, and previously owned (amongst other things) several Daf variomatics, a couple of Triumph 1300s and my last BMW (first car after passing my test in 1985 in days when it didn't need a lottery win) was a 1971 2500 auto when they were just "old barges". My second was a mk1 Mini bought for £50 in 1988 and run until it wouldn't anymore. As I'm sure most of us have said at some time, if only I'd known back then.... The TD is Christine (and boy has she earned that name at times!). She's pretty straight but does want some tidying here & there, which is being picked away at as and when time allows. She's a daily driver so will never be showrooom I'm afraid but has very little rust, a good engine and box, and is just a nice place to be on the road! Pics will follow when I get time to take some, but for now here's a teaser of the home-upholstered driver's seat I treated her to when I couldn't bear the split fabric and cheap covers she had anymore. One day ill find time to do the passenger's side to match
  4. 1 point
    Last week I'd finally had enough of the stalling problems on our '94 L reg 525TD auto. She'd idle well enough but, on falling revs, she tended to overshoot and occasionally stall before recovering. Having extensively lurked here & elsewhere I'd come to the conclusion that the answer was to adjust the centre of the injector pump. That was reinforced by the fact that the pump had no "tamperproof" screw fitted - they were all normal torx heads, suggesting to me that someone had been there before. So, with a mixture of 1/8 drive sockets and Trump size hands, I just cracked off the outer pump screws and gave it a couple of taps. There was an instant improvement in idle combined with an instant fuel leak. Oops! Now, just afer we got the car the pump top had sprung a leak and the seal I got from ebay was the wrong one, so i'd bodged it with silicone while waiting for the right seal set from a North Wales diesel specialist who recognised the pump. For the record, the correct seal set is Bosch part number 2 467 010 003. Because the silicone held better than expected, I still had the seal set and today was the day to finally sort her out. Given the help various posts around here had given me with this and with getting a working DIS setup, I figured I'd take my camera with me and break cover once it was done. Hope it helps someone Getting to the pump involves: remove the centre cover: Disconnect the EGR pipe and air inlet hose from the manifold: Disconnect the manifold pressure line from the sensor or, as I found easier with slightly crusty pipes, remove the sensor from the wing mount: Remove the top bolts from the manifold bracket: Undo the two plastic nuts (10mm) holding the expansion tank to the bulkhead. You don't need to disconnect the tank but you do need to be able to move it to get at the rear manifold nuts: Once you've undone all the manifold nuts, unhook the 3 or 4 pipes that are clipped to brackets underneath it and you can move the manifold enough to get to & disconnect the inlet air temp sensor (arrowed): Lift the manifold out and you're looking at the pump: To give a reasonable chance of getting it back together in the right place, mark a coupe of clear scribe lines on the back (engine side) of the pump across the lower joint. Unfortunately the marks don't show up in the photo but it gives an idea where to mark: Now disconnect the fuel inlet line and stuff a LOT of rags or Blue roll down underneath the pump. Undo the 4 torx screws at the top of the pump - fuel will pee out, hence the rags: Lift off the top and you can replace the top seal in the cover. I won't insult any of your intelligences by banging on about cleanliness at this point, but you really don't want crud falling into the pump so, if in doubt, cover it! Next off is the pump centre, by undoing the remaining 3 screws. There'll be more leakage here. Also, don't forget to disconnect the wiring plug on the side of the engine block... You can then lift out the pump center to expose the pump base It doesn't show well in the photo but, in the circled area, there's a piston with a hole drilled in it. When you reassemble you need to get the drive pin on the bottom of the centre part into that hole - it's not difficult and the center won't seat properly if it's out so it's obvious once it's in properly. Now hook out the old seal, clean up the flanges (should be pretty good anyway) and fit the new seal. Note that the new seal may have an additional locating tab (arrowed) which our pumps don't have a location for. Just slice it off clean with a craft knife: What's left is mostly reversal of the above with the following notes: Be careful to align the centre with the scribe marks you made, tighten the 3 outer screws so they just come up tight at this stage - you want to compress the new seal but no more: Refit the top cover and tighten it fully, then slacken the long (n/s front) screw slightly. This will allow the top & centre to be tapped gently back or forwards if needed to adjust the pump. Once everything's back together, try a start. Your marks should have got you at least close enough on the adjustment for it to fire. In my case, it wasn't close enough for it to run. This is where the barely tightened screws come in. Using a socket extension or similar and a hammer, you can tap the centre of the pump to move it backwards or forwards until the idle and response is right, as in the video below. Once happy, tighten the 4 screws to clamp everything up tight. The front o's screw is awkward with everything reassembled but you can get to it with 1/8 inch drive: Initial start, adjustment, and final results can be seen here: https://youtu.be/0f8fJFwDPSs
  5. 1 point
    Steve-Savalas

    Gearbox Flush

    Teesside Autotech did mine, they're on Mandale Triangle in Thornaby. The other place i would trust is Austrin Engineering - they're an auto box specialist in Newcastle. They have a decent website which is worth a look. From my experience there's a couple of other factors that could be causing your gear change issues.... first is the propshaft 'donut'. A rubber coupling that wears over time. It's easy to check and cheap to replace and definitely causes the symptoms you describe. The other sounds strange, but it's the engine & gearbox mounts. Once mine were replaced i couldn't believe the difference. Sometimes, when stationary and in neutral, i would feel a slight 'thunk' or shunt when putting the car into drive. This was totally eliminated after the new engine & gearbox mounts. Also gone was the lurch when slowing down and going from 2nd to 1st. They're worth getting checked out. It's hard to diagnose faulty engine mounts as the e60 has 'active engine mounts' (look it up). I bit the bullet and had them replaced to get rid of a slight vibration when driving and the car was transformed, as was the gear change. The 2 engine mounts were £70 each and the gearbox mount was about £50, plus 1.5 hours labour carried out at Sterling Services at Preston Farm, Teesside. That was the best money I've ever spent! Something to think about before splashing out on a gearbox service, although yours is overdue as they now recommend a gearbox oil change at 60k
  6. 1 point
    Mine go hand tight plus a turn or so What did i do today.. currently have it in southern republic of Ireland and ticked over 46k miles. I keep thinking I'll sell it and then I have great fun with the autobox manual mode and revs and then it being a great cruiser when I need it. Can't imagine being able to make the most of a bigger displacement engine at legal ish speeds. It's covered in bird cack too.
  7. 1 point
    NWJW

    Bit sore today....

    ^^^A metal fence, the drivers door caught a post square on, luckily, it stopped the car skidding off the road, if the car had managed to skid off the road we would have rolled down a very steep embankment.
  8. 1 point
    NA, no plans to go FI yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  9. 1 point
    Cheers , nipped euros and chucked an alternator on it... charging nicely now
  10. 1 point
    There`s a voltage regulator on the alternator, you need to check to see if you have a Bosch or a Valeo alternator before ordering a replacement Jay
  11. 1 point
    You need to remove the rear spoiler to access the cable. If you search for Diversity Antenna Replacement you should find some guides to access this. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  12. 1 point
    I have the nightbreakers as above, they are very bright, but more white than a 6000k slight blue xenon tint
  13. 1 point
    http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/store/ Hope it helps your swing...
  14. 1 point
    stchris356

    M5 15 plate up for sale in Ford Dealer

    Probably a partex for a Mustang ! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  15. 1 point
    tristan

    UKs first RWB Porsche

    thread revival... they just released the official build documentary video thing if anyones interested and got a spare 18 mins caution : ugly bloke close up about 2 mins in and appears few times throughout!
  16. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Air Cleaner Element

    Yes and you are well due a change at 4 years I would say. But then again BMW only swap them out every second or third oil change. Micro filters are changed every two years, your iDrive will tell you that. Dead easy to DIY change, takes longer to reset the iDrive than change them!
  17. 1 point
    Dotcom1970

    Found oil

    it's a sign that the dilithium crystals canna take it captain...
  18. 1 point
    Mashed Potatoes

    Found oil

    Is that a 535D? Could be an oil feed to one of the turbos under the heatshield has a leak.
  19. 1 point
    Splondike

    Splondike's M535i Project

    Cheers mate. I have finally got around to starting to fix my headlight that smashed on the way to Gaydon last year. It was obviously quite hefty as it dented the chrome headlight surround as well as shattering the glass !
  20. 1 point
    DennisCooper

    Just checking

  21. 1 point
    DennisCooper

    Ipad intergration

    Hi Kenny, Long time no speak! The ipad mini when used in landscape mode is still taller than the aperture in the E39 dash so, you'd have to cut your dash pieces in order to make it fit flush and nice. This would add to any installation costs if you don't wish/can't DIY. iPads do provide a digital audio signal out, so a good quality outboard DAC (digital to analogue converter) would also be needed. As you can tell, costs would then escalate somewhat! Given that it seems the fascia is handmade, then quality will vary and the post above from Deepan highlights this - on the facebook page, perhaps others have got better finished fascias? or, just aren't mentioning how much below par their pieces are?. A better manufacturing method with automation would increase quality consistency but seems the seller doesn't want/won't want to invest in order to get a consistently higher quality product. Cheers, Dennis!
  22. 1 point
    Hi, The concept is pretty much the same as a 'Car PC' and it's really only been a handful, if that E39 owners who've gone for such a setup. The main disadvantages are that to get a good level of specification for the components which are then also automotive grade is significantly higher. A good quality, coated, 7 inch touchscreen rated for in car use is around £235+ last time I looked. Things like anti vibration housing/case, cables, qualty DAC's and other aspects in the site oberlointment mentions soon add to the costs. This is all of course for getting a 'high quality' solution/installation in place that'll likely remain working reliably for years to come. By using cheaper, non automotive grade items, or skimping on various aspects will bring the price down, there's still all the aspects of creating the unit, configuring software, making connections etc etc and all of that puts off 99.9+% of owners. For those who like to tinker and do stuff like this, it's a great project ! Cheers, Dennis!
  23. 1 point
    Meyle HD are a good substitute for certain lemforder parts. They have slightly beefier bushes in them. You're going to fall in love with your car all over again once you've refreshed the suspension. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  24. 1 point
    711jrp

    UKs first RWB Porsche

    Hideous!!! poor little car.
  25. 1 point
    CarlBM

    E39 Audio Upgrade - Final

    The last part of my bit towards this install... With the bit ten sound processor comes the DRC remote control, the task was were to put it?? I wanted to put it in the ashtray space, so set about taking it apart to see if it would work and it just about fits. So began modifying the crap out of the ashtray. I asked a company we work with to laser cut a bit of ally to tidy up the top part(sorry makes sense to me). I then ran the cable from the centre console straight to the back seats and into the boot, but no picks of this as it was a bitch to get done and under the carpet. Today after finished painting the top piece all fitted and ready to go. Overall I am very happy with how it looks. Thats it for my bits, the car is booked in next Tuesday & Wednesday to have it all wired up. I feel like a kid at Christmas.


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