Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing most liked content on 04/16/2017 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    They would do exactly the same as BMW pre sale - nothing. My experience of buying AUC is that they let the customer find the faults.
  2. 2 points

    Ford Reminiscing

    I remember as a boy of about 10 yrs old my dad talking about changing the family car,we went to the garage that he always used and the choice was either a year old Cortina 2000E or a brand new Marina 1.8,I can still feel the disappointment when he chose the Marina, He did redeem himself a few years later by buying one of the first Mk5 Cortinas.
  3. 1 point
    David D

    2010 F11 535d - Massive Spec

    Sadly, it is time to sell the beast. Our 2.5 year old gets car sick, so no more road trips for us until he is bigger. The car is not getting as much use as it deserves, so it should go to a new home where it can be loved and used. It has a truly massive spec, with the original owner adding some £35k+ of options! I've listed the detailed spec below. Some key details: Price: £21,000. Mileage: 48,600 Colour: Space Grey Metallic MOT: 18 Jan 2018 First Registered: 18 Jan 2011 Previous Owners: 2 (including me) Service History: Full BMW and PMW Ltd Comes with the "Comprehensive" BMW extended warranty, which is transferrable to the new owner, and runs until 14 June 2017. This can be extended monthly or annually up to 100,000 miles. After that the cover becomes more limited, but BMW will still offer their "Drive Line" level of cover. It is a truly stunning car, with so many toys you really need to look at the complete spec to take it all in! I've added lots of photos to try and show it all. PM if you are interested, and/or want more info. Thanks for looking, David Detailed Spec: Type MX72 Model 535d - EUR Development Code F11 Chassis TOUR Steering RL Doors 5 Engine N57S Displacement 3.00 Power 180 Drivetrain HECK Transmission AUT Colour Space Grey Metallic - A52 Upholstery Exclusive leather Nappa Erw./oyster - NACX Production Plant DINGOLFING Production Date 2010-12-15 Registration Date 2011-01-18 Standard Equipment 1CD Brake Energy Regeneration 2K1 Alloy Wheels V-spoke 236 853 Language Version English 2PA Locking Wheel Bolts 2TB Sport Automatic Transmission 2VA Adaptive Drive 2VH Integral Active Steering 223 Dynamic Damper Control 229 Dynamic Drive 230 Eu Specific Additional Equipment 248 Steering Wheel Heating 255 Sports Leather Steering Wheel 258 Runflat Tyres 3AC Trailer Tow Hitch 3AG Backup Camera 3MC Ind.roof Rails High-gloss Shadow L 302 Alarm System 316 Automatic Tailgate Operation 320 Model Designation, Deletion 322 Comfort Access System 323 Soft Close Automatic System For Doors 358 Climate Comfort Windscreen 4BN Fine Wood Trim Ash Grain 4NB Aut.air Conditioning 4-zone Control 4UR Ambient Light 418 Luggage Compartment Package 423 Floor Mats, Velour 428 Warning Triangle 430 Int/ext Rr Vw Mirror W Aut Anti-dazzle 431 Interior Rr Vw Mirror W Aut Anti-d 456 Comfort Seats, Electric. Adjustable 488 Lumbar Support Driver/front Passenger 494 Seat Heating F Driver/front Passenger 496 Seat Heating For Rear Seats 5AC Autom. High-beam Headlights Control 5AD Lane Deviation Warning 5AG Lane Change Warning 5DF Active Cruise Ctrl+stop&go Funct. 5DL Surround View 5DP Park Assistant 5GB Stolen Vehicle Tracking 502 Headlight Washer System 508 Park Distance Control (pdc) 522 Xenon Light 524 Adaptive Headlights 6AA Bmw Teleservices 6AB Control Teleservices 6FL Usb-/audio Interface 6NF Ext.con.of The Music Play.i.mobilph 6UK Night Vision With Object Recognition 6VC Control Combox 601 Tv Function 609 Navigation System Professional 610 Head Up Display 612 Bmw Assist 615 Extended Bmw Online Information 616 Bmw Online 620 Voice Input System 633 Prep.mob. Ph. Business Bluet.interf. 654 Dab Tuner 677 Hifi System Professional 698 Area-code 2 760 Individual High-gloss Satin Chrome 761 Individual Sun Protection Glazing 775 Individual Roof-lining Anthracite 8KA Oelservice Int. 30.000 Km/24 Months 8SC Country Spec. Release Of Teleservice 8SM Vin, Visible From Outside 8S2 Coding Of Alarm Signal 8S3 Automatic Lock When Driving Away 8TF Active Protection For Pedestrians 8TG Anti-theft System 8TH Speed Limit Info 8TL Daytime Lights Front And Rear Aktiv 8TN Daytime Driving Lights Selectable B 8V1 Ncap Label 812 England Version 850 Add Fuel Tank Filling For Export 863 Europe/dealer Directory 877 Deletion Cross-over Operation 880 English / On-board Documentation
  4. 1 point

    Finally stopped lurking!

    Been reading around here for the past couple of years on & off since we picked up a '93 build ('94 reg) 525 TD auto with 2 previous owners (one of them for about 3 months!) and 65k miles on the clock. It's now on 83k miles and, having just replaced the top & centre injector pump seals with help from various posts here I figured it was time to break cover and say Hi I'm Joe, I'm a watchmaker on Anglesey, and previously owned (amongst other things) several Daf variomatics, a couple of Triumph 1300s and my last BMW (first car after passing my test in 1985 in days when it didn't need a lottery win) was a 1971 2500 auto when they were just "old barges". My second was a mk1 Mini bought for £50 in 1988 and run until it wouldn't anymore. As I'm sure most of us have said at some time, if only I'd known back then.... The TD is Christine (and boy has she earned that name at times!). She's pretty straight but does want some tidying here & there, which is being picked away at as and when time allows. She's a daily driver so will never be showrooom I'm afraid but has very little rust, a good engine and box, and is just a nice place to be on the road! Pics will follow when I get time to take some, but for now here's a teaser of the home-upholstered driver's seat I treated her to when I couldn't bear the split fabric and cheap covers she had anymore. One day ill find time to do the passenger's side to match
  5. 1 point

    Driving test changes

    The Police cannot deal with crime already, lack of funds/person power etc so nothing would change ... But the majority would be paying for the idiots again, I'm all for protect children/old folks etc ... but the Police need to target the cause ....not make the majority pay for the idiots.
  6. 1 point

    Driving test changes

    Night night Sir .. Swearing is pretty low .... and another Liberal trait.
  7. 1 point

    Driving test changes

    Also it's NOT the minority! I'd say at least 70% of the drivers are shit drivers!
  8. 1 point
    Last week I'd finally had enough of the stalling problems on our '94 L reg 525TD auto. She'd idle well enough but, on falling revs, she tended to overshoot and occasionally stall before recovering. Having extensively lurked here & elsewhere I'd come to the conclusion that the answer was to adjust the centre of the injector pump. That was reinforced by the fact that the pump had no "tamperproof" screw fitted - they were all normal torx heads, suggesting to me that someone had been there before. So, with a mixture of 1/8 drive sockets and Trump size hands, I just cracked off the outer pump screws and gave it a couple of taps. There was an instant improvement in idle combined with an instant fuel leak. Oops! Now, just afer we got the car the pump top had sprung a leak and the seal I got from ebay was the wrong one, so i'd bodged it with silicone while waiting for the right seal set from a North Wales diesel specialist who recognised the pump. For the record, the correct seal set is Bosch part number 2 467 010 003. Because the silicone held better than expected, I still had the seal set and today was the day to finally sort her out. Given the help various posts around here had given me with this and with getting a working DIS setup, I figured I'd take my camera with me and break cover once it was done. Hope it helps someone Getting to the pump involves: remove the centre cover: Disconnect the EGR pipe and air inlet hose from the manifold: Disconnect the manifold pressure line from the sensor or, as I found easier with slightly crusty pipes, remove the sensor from the wing mount: Remove the top bolts from the manifold bracket: Undo the two plastic nuts (10mm) holding the expansion tank to the bulkhead. You don't need to disconnect the tank but you do need to be able to move it to get at the rear manifold nuts: Once you've undone all the manifold nuts, unhook the 3 or 4 pipes that are clipped to brackets underneath it and you can move the manifold enough to get to & disconnect the inlet air temp sensor (arrowed): Lift the manifold out and you're looking at the pump: To give a reasonable chance of getting it back together in the right place, mark a coupe of clear scribe lines on the back (engine side) of the pump across the lower joint. Unfortunately the marks don't show up in the photo but it gives an idea where to mark: Now disconnect the fuel inlet line and stuff a LOT of rags or Blue roll down underneath the pump. Undo the 4 torx screws at the top of the pump - fuel will pee out, hence the rags: Lift off the top and you can replace the top seal in the cover. I won't insult any of your intelligences by banging on about cleanliness at this point, but you really don't want crud falling into the pump so, if in doubt, cover it! Next off is the pump centre, by undoing the remaining 3 screws. There'll be more leakage here. Also, don't forget to disconnect the wiring plug on the side of the engine block... You can then lift out the pump center to expose the pump base It doesn't show well in the photo but, in the circled area, there's a piston with a hole drilled in it. When you reassemble you need to get the drive pin on the bottom of the centre part into that hole - it's not difficult and the center won't seat properly if it's out so it's obvious once it's in properly. Now hook out the old seal, clean up the flanges (should be pretty good anyway) and fit the new seal. Note that the new seal may have an additional locating tab (arrowed) which our pumps don't have a location for. Just slice it off clean with a craft knife: What's left is mostly reversal of the above with the following notes: Be careful to align the centre with the scribe marks you made, tighten the 3 outer screws so they just come up tight at this stage - you want to compress the new seal but no more: Refit the top cover and tighten it fully, then slacken the long (n/s front) screw slightly. This will allow the top & centre to be tapped gently back or forwards if needed to adjust the pump. Once everything's back together, try a start. Your marks should have got you at least close enough on the adjustment for it to fire. In my case, it wasn't close enough for it to run. This is where the barely tightened screws come in. Using a socket extension or similar and a hammer, you can tap the centre of the pump to move it backwards or forwards until the idle and response is right, as in the video below. Once happy, tighten the 4 screws to clamp everything up tight. The front o's screw is awkward with everything reassembled but you can get to it with 1/8 inch drive: Initial start, adjustment, and final results can be seen here: https://youtu.be/0f8fJFwDPSs
  9. 1 point

    Driving test changes

    One of the things I heard mention was of there perhaps being a 2 or 3 part test where there were restrictions on the carrying of passengers and on night driving. Also of there being something like 'go back to square one' for certain offences committed prior to be fully qualified. Still need something to deter the idiots who do get a full licence though. Can't remember the last time I saw a Police patrol pull someone in. As for speed limits, don't get me started... Sent from my Vodafone Smart ultra 6 using Tapatalk
  10. 1 point
  11. 1 point

    Auto gearbox tech???

    also get the engine mounts checked.
  12. 1 point
    Thanks but I'd only want to replace with new stuff!
  13. 1 point

    Time to trade in for an F10

    Would defo look at a bigger engine and not the 520d for that budget. Should get a pretty well spec'd example.
  14. 1 point
    Same here. Never lost one either though in fairness, there are FOUR wheels for a reason. Be very unlucky to lose two at the same time.
  15. 1 point

    Gearbox service

    If they can fit me on Thursday 20th then that will be a bonus as heading up to Manchester in the evening. Here's hoping... Thanks again Pidgeonpost
  16. 1 point

    Looking for help with USB - Iphone

    I tried lots of cheap cables, iPhone (lightening) to USB and some would charge but not allow data transfer(music / iPhone control) but only original cable worked for everything. There are two 'Y' cables, one apparently has a chip and one does not. I was told if your car has the controller built in you don't need the cable with the chip. Not much difference in the price though. The only other cable that worked for me was a 'original' from 7dayshop.com. It's a bit stiffer than the original but seems gold quality, it worked perfectly. I decided to buy a apple original cable, no issues and cheaper than BMW original 'Y' cable. rrm
  17. 1 point

    Gearbox Flush

    Yes, there is only one transmision mount. I asked for it to be done regardless of its' condition. Simple job according to the guy at Sterling. Pretty sure it was £50 for the part. I have the receipt somewhere. I'm not sure if you're looking at the LCI or pre-LCI there. I know there are different versions of the ZF transmission used in the e60 but I would imagine the mount is similar for each one.
  18. 1 point
    Mashed Potatoes

    Auto gearbox tech???

    http://www.mackie-transmission.com/home Probably about an hour away from you but very well regarded.
  19. 1 point
    Why would you spend that much dosh and not have it serviced? The mind boggles.
  20. 1 point

    Gearbox Flush

    Teesside Autotech did mine, they're on Mandale Triangle in Thornaby. The other place i would trust is Austrin Engineering - they're an auto box specialist in Newcastle. They have a decent website which is worth a look. From my experience there's a couple of other factors that could be causing your gear change issues.... first is the propshaft 'donut'. A rubber coupling that wears over time. It's easy to check and cheap to replace and definitely causes the symptoms you describe. The other sounds strange, but it's the engine & gearbox mounts. Once mine were replaced i couldn't believe the difference. Sometimes, when stationary and in neutral, i would feel a slight 'thunk' or shunt when putting the car into drive. This was totally eliminated after the new engine & gearbox mounts. Also gone was the lurch when slowing down and going from 2nd to 1st. They're worth getting checked out. It's hard to diagnose faulty engine mounts as the e60 has 'active engine mounts' (look it up). I bit the bullet and had them replaced to get rid of a slight vibration when driving and the car was transformed, as was the gear change. The 2 engine mounts were £70 each and the gearbox mount was about £50, plus 1.5 hours labour carried out at Sterling Services at Preston Farm, Teesside. That was the best money I've ever spent! Something to think about before splashing out on a gearbox service, although yours is overdue as they now recommend a gearbox oil change at 60k
  21. 1 point
    Mine go hand tight plus a turn or so What did i do today.. currently have it in southern republic of Ireland and ticked over 46k miles. I keep thinking I'll sell it and then I have great fun with the autobox manual mode and revs and then it being a great cruiser when I need it. Can't imagine being able to make the most of a bigger displacement engine at legal ish speeds. It's covered in bird cack too.
  22. 1 point

    Bit sore today....

    ^^^A metal fence, the drivers door caught a post square on, luckily, it stopped the car skidding off the road, if the car had managed to skid off the road we would have rolled down a very steep embankment.
  23. 1 point
    NA, no plans to go FI yet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  24. 1 point
    Cheers , nipped euros and chucked an alternator on it... charging nicely now
  25. 1 point
    There`s a voltage regulator on the alternator, you need to check to see if you have a Bosch or a Valeo alternator before ordering a replacement Jay
  26. 1 point
    You need to remove the rear spoiler to access the cable. If you search for Diversity Antenna Replacement you should find some guides to access this. Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
  27. 1 point
    I have the nightbreakers as above, they are very bright, but more white than a 6000k slight blue xenon tint
  28. 1 point
    http://forum.bmw5.co.uk/store/ Hope it helps your swing...
  29. 1 point

    M5 15 plate up for sale in Ford Dealer

    Probably a partex for a Mustang ! Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  30. 1 point

    UKs first RWB Porsche

    thread revival... they just released the official build documentary video thing if anyones interested and got a spare 18 mins caution : ugly bloke close up about 2 mins in and appears few times throughout!
  31. 1 point
    535i Andrew

    Air Cleaner Element

    Yes and you are well due a change at 4 years I would say. But then again BMW only swap them out every second or third oil change. Micro filters are changed every two years, your iDrive will tell you that. Dead easy to DIY change, takes longer to reset the iDrive than change them!
  32. 1 point

    Found oil

    it's a sign that the dilithium crystals canna take it captain...
  33. 1 point
    Mashed Potatoes

    Found oil

    Is that a 535D? Could be an oil feed to one of the turbos under the heatshield has a leak.
  34. 1 point

    Splondike's M535i Project

    Cheers mate. I have finally got around to starting to fix my headlight that smashed on the way to Gaydon last year. It was obviously quite hefty as it dented the chrome headlight surround as well as shattering the glass !
  35. 1 point

    Just checking

  36. 1 point

    Ipad intergration

    Hi Kenny, Long time no speak! The ipad mini when used in landscape mode is still taller than the aperture in the E39 dash so, you'd have to cut your dash pieces in order to make it fit flush and nice. This would add to any installation costs if you don't wish/can't DIY. iPads do provide a digital audio signal out, so a good quality outboard DAC (digital to analogue converter) would also be needed. As you can tell, costs would then escalate somewhat! Given that it seems the fascia is handmade, then quality will vary and the post above from Deepan highlights this - on the facebook page, perhaps others have got better finished fascias? or, just aren't mentioning how much below par their pieces are?. A better manufacturing method with automation would increase quality consistency but seems the seller doesn't want/won't want to invest in order to get a consistently higher quality product. Cheers, Dennis!
  37. 1 point
    Hi, The concept is pretty much the same as a 'Car PC' and it's really only been a handful, if that E39 owners who've gone for such a setup. The main disadvantages are that to get a good level of specification for the components which are then also automotive grade is significantly higher. A good quality, coated, 7 inch touchscreen rated for in car use is around £235+ last time I looked. Things like anti vibration housing/case, cables, qualty DAC's and other aspects in the site oberlointment mentions soon add to the costs. This is all of course for getting a 'high quality' solution/installation in place that'll likely remain working reliably for years to come. By using cheaper, non automotive grade items, or skimping on various aspects will bring the price down, there's still all the aspects of creating the unit, configuring software, making connections etc etc and all of that puts off 99.9+% of owners. For those who like to tinker and do stuff like this, it's a great project ! Cheers, Dennis!
  38. 1 point
    Meyle HD are a good substitute for certain lemforder parts. They have slightly beefier bushes in them. You're going to fall in love with your car all over again once you've refreshed the suspension. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  39. 1 point

    UKs first RWB Porsche

    Hideous!!! poor little car.
  40. 1 point

    E39 Audio Upgrade - Final

    The last part of my bit towards this install... With the bit ten sound processor comes the DRC remote control, the task was were to put it?? I wanted to put it in the ashtray space, so set about taking it apart to see if it would work and it just about fits. So began modifying the crap out of the ashtray.... I asked a company we work with to laser cut a bit of ally to tidy up the top part(sorry makes sense to me), all primered up. I then ran the cable from the centre console straight to the back seats and into the boot, but no picks of this as it was a bitch to get done and under the carpet. Today after finished painting the top piece all fitted and ready to go. Overall I am very happy with how it looks. lid in place to hide the install Thats it for my bits, the car is booked in next Tuesday & Wednesday to have it all wired up. :-P I feel like a kid at Christmas.