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Showing most liked content on 02/15/2017 in all areas

  1. Naughty off the record chats to Russians even before The Donald got in, shades of Clinton actions, still another quick exit and new incumbent in a rather important chair. its a touch musical - still let him sort out the rubbish and prior crap - I would.
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  2. Shameless eBay link here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172528751637?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649 This car is chassis no.49 off the production line for tourers. Aspen silver 163k on clock Good points Black leather Rollout boot floor M sport wheel Had all the welding done in rear sills Has new steering rack All new ball joints on front end Rear pads and shoes done No broken buttons MOT till late August Recently serviced New thermostat Radiator was new 2 years ago Bad points Couple of rust areas in usual areas Bonnet has dulled slightly Speed sensor gone for gearbox. Gearbox doesn't leak, gearbox doesn't slip at all, had fluid checked and topped up, took 200ml of fluid, however it seems to hold third forever and changes 4th-5th at about 80mph, however it shifts fine in manual, and probably one of the smoothest boxes I've ever used in a 39, there's no vibrations or slipping from box, reading up it's either a sensor or maf needs cleaning. Sometimes self level light shows up, not sure why as I've replaced sensors. What does the car need? Bit of bodywork and the gearbox sensor or whatever holds it in 3rd,. As said though, this is the 49th Tourer ever built and will be worth hanging on to, it's my uncles car I'd love to keep it but I have too many. MOT till August *since writing this advert I have checked fault codes on car and appears to be either MAF or a speed sensor has gone*
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  3. You could try and find a genuine hybrid tv tuner (I sold my one for just over £200 recently) or get your analogue unit upgraded to digital here....http://www.carphonics.co.uk/digitaltv.htm Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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  4. It controls the heaters basically, so when (not if) your heaters either blow flat out cold or do nothing and you can't change any settings on the panel, your hedgehog has died. I had a look at the wiring loom amp thing I got for pennies and made it work, then found that it had a dicky connection so unplugged it....then drove it home, hit a bump which threw up traction light, abs light and (!) light .....on the bright side at least the abs and (!) light has gone out now so after a few restarts, so I've got that going for me, which is nice.
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  5. you'd like the alpina units even more then!
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  6. My in tank pump also failed a turn away from home, good safety feature that, not leaving you stranded too far
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  7. Doesn't it all depend on whether you have your foot on the brake when you turn the engine off? Try it.
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  8. Spent my lunch hour wishing I was double jointed fitting an A119 Dash Cam and wiring it up to the power socket fuse behind the glove box. All done now but the back is my hand is scratched to hell and my elbow feels like its been rotated 360degrees.
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  9. Richard has hit the nail on the head. The amp you have can only be added to the system. It won't replace the bm54. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  10. My brake pedal is always stiff when I start the car (Auto) but then drops and acts normally thereafter
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  11. My LCI pulls away in both 1st and 2nd dunno why, maybe it determines what angle the car is at so selects what gear it thinks appropriate. In sport upshifts are terrible driving around town, unless your giving it the beans which i suppose being sport mode around town kinda defeats the purpose lol.
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  12. Re reading your post I'm not sure exactly what you are trying to do! That harness is a Sound On Top harness or a Parrot hands free harness. Both do the same thing, they take the output from the radio and modify the output to the speakers in some way. So, the large female plug goes into the radio module, the large male socket takes the car wiring harness plug.
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  13. The tips I got were... turn the knob all the way to the minus side tight, then crack it the other way slightly, and, what seems to make a big difference for a lot of people, is using warm water over cold. So deffo give that a try.
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  14. I'd be going for the Hella ones; they're what I fitted to my 530i via eBay reseller
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  17. hi guys, not been on here in ages. I just had to say Ive gone and done it! I have wanted an E39 M5 for 5-6 years now and back in 2014 I got one. A 2000 car that had FBMWSH and only 87k miles on her. She was always used as a toy be both the previous owners and did need some work but mostly was great. I spent a few k doing the suspension overhaul, seals and engine work. still had one or 2 things left to do but I did something stupid and took her out in the rain at the end of 2014. I always drove in sport mode (preferred the heavy steering and throttle response) and I had DSC off (stupid) unfortunately I lost the back end in the wet where there was fuel/oil on the road and the insurance wrote her off. I then bought another one dirt cheap that needs a lot of work and I had her in the garage for 2 years up till yesterday. Ive been buying up all the bits needed and just never had the drive to do the jobs. All in all I have £4k of parts (suspension and engine bearings timing wise) the main thing that needs doing is the jacking points and the bodywork. This is what has put me off. Well I have just booked the car in for MOT on Tuesday next week and purchased fully comp insurance with 8k mile, 2 claims (1 fault [M5 write off], 1 none fault[muppet hitting my 530d]) social and commute 9 yr NCB for £361. so Ive gone and done it Ill be driving the M5 about for a bit. Ill be going to get quotes on the body work and using her while I sort out my 530d and fit all the black sport interior in to her and put the sport bodywork on her off the 525i I am breaking. also use her while I do the clutch and flywheel on it too meaning I don't need to rush the jobs on my rest days. Ill also be weighing up if its worth getting the M5 bodywork done fully and then doing all the jobs on the suspension and drive train I want to do then save up and send her in to CPC or mr Vanos and get them to fit all the timing chain guides and tensioners and big end bearing bits I have rather than risk doing it myself as the vanos is putting me off and its an expensive engine to F*** up if I get it wrong. just had to say I am back in my all time favourite car again. cheers hope I didn't boar you too much Billy
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  18. Very low mileage, can't really think of a common failure other than part #2 (bridge seal) as posted by 535iAR. Nevertheless, only way to find out is to drop the pan
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  19. Your V8 gave the bushings a hard time
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  20. Redbull? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  21. Thanks for sharing AR! I'll get down the garage myself tomorrow and discuss this with the mechanic. They are transmission specialists but the points you and Jake make are very valid. I've experienced pretty much everything you have noted including the car going into limp mode! This stuffs like goldust, thanks so much guys! I'll keep you posted on developments. BW Micks
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  22. Don't go down the Kodi route. Get Amazon Prime and pay. It's not much. And you won't be a thief. If the likes of Kodi is used by everyone, how the hell are these programmes ever going to be funded? Yes, if you get it, you'll be able to watch all the episodes.
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  23. It's the one cluster gor manual, auto, and touring models. The ZCS (vehicle coding key) is what tells the cluster what type of car it is in. This can easily be changed with NCSexpert or progman. It's the VIN that cannot be changed without replacing a chip on the PCB. That's the key to removing the tamper dot. http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2163451 Absinthe makes the tart grow fonder.
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  25. Thanks - I'm beginning to think that my mind has been effected by all this as I found myself on a forecourt looking at a 2011 Mercedes E350 CDI over the weekend! (Sorry, probably a banned name on this forum!) - Now that the fever has gone, another 530 or 535 petrol or diesel (F10) is my preferred choice, but they seem quite rare and more expensive than the Mercs! - One thing I have decided is to avoid certain colours like Flame red, Ember orange, Smokey brown and perhaps even Petrol blue!
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  26. This is why Alpina cost arm and a leg x 2, but the ride, roadholding and general great suspension makes it all worth it, doesn't it S/F and URQ !!
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  27. I would recomend a leak off test at your local indi, i had this issue and turned out to be a bad injector. If your car is diesel that is, if not im sure someone else will be able to shed some light.
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  28. Single DSC button Black/yellow: -> DSC module Red/white: Voltage supply F31 Brown/black: Ground Grey/red: LCM (button lighting) Switch pack X1869 Pin 16 -> DSC module Pin 2 & 7 Voltage Pin 19 Ground Pin 3 LCM (button lighting) Pin 21 K-bus
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  29. I did swap my individual button setup for a single switch pack but mine was ASC not DSC. not that it'll make a difference. Google WDS BMW and all diagrams are there. If you get stuck give me a shout
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  31. Has anyone had a Drivetrain error message come up on their car, only for it to disappear again within a couple of seconds. I have had this happen 3 times now in the last week, and the car went into limp mode this morning. I have taken it into the local dealer, who cannot find anything wrong, as the message clears itself and the check control reports back as OK. Their advice: wait until you break down and then call BMW emergency services! The car is a 2015 F11 520d msport - about 13,000 miles on the clock. Any suggestions gratefully received. Thanks in advance.
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  32. Ha, thanks mate. She's still here - girlf bought a V70 D5 in May meaning I've only been using it for bits and bobs locally, accruing a grand total of 300 miles since May! So it is with a sad heart that I've decided to sell in the new year. I'll put a new MOT on it and give it a service (as have all the bits), then she's going up for sale. What do people think she's worth? I literally have no idea where to place her. A brief list of important bits: 2002 530d Manual Sport Touring 227k miles Will have 12 months MOT Pretty much all mechanicals done - all suspension replaced (dampers, airsprings, links), brakes, rear subframe bushes, etc etc. Engine oil every 7k on average, diff and gearbox every year. Both fuel pumps, turbo, alternator, headlights, prop donut/guibo, MID pixels all done. Goodyear F1s on rear, Bridgestone Potenzas up front, 6mm or so all round. Staggered. Evolve remap Short shift EGR delete and bypass Eibach front ARB M5 rear ARB M5 leather centre console Parrot Anyone have a clue please say as I'll be putting up in a month or so. Cheers -
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