Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/23/2018 in all areas

  1. 6 points
  2. 4 points
    Well the 535d was chopped in for a new XC90 nearly a year ago.. And we are loving it.. No where as fast but overall for our needs the better car. Vast boot, space, stunning design and loads of kit. But only if it had that 3.0 twin turbo..... Anyway my 2014 GTD of 4 years post mapping it to circa 240bhp (crazy fun) had been chopped in for a....... Sorry...... MERCEDES-BENZ. A car with the longest name ever... MERCEDES C250D 4Matic Premium Plus AMG line Midnight edition wagon. 18 months old. And again, loving it. Stunning interior and exterior, mapped to 250bhp with 550nm. It goes very well. Sub 6 at the lights and a ball hair under 50mpg on the run to work and back. The Burmester speaker package (£3k option alone) blows anything I have heard out of the water. If you get a chance try it. I did try to buy a 335d touring but I just couldnget along with the low rent interior and with the new 3 about to launch it felt like the old car it is. Also trying to bundle up all the option I wanted was impossible. Merc does make it easier with the Premium plus pack... Pretty much everythings included.
  3. 4 points
    Ah the good old days when a three series needed a bag of cement in the boot during icy conditions to prevent visits to the ditches. As Monty Python would have observed, "Try telling that to young folks nowdays and they won't believe you"
  4. 4 points
    Had my first ever breakdown in any car that I've owned in the last 10 years and was a bit, erhmm, surprised, to say the least.....Well, it was kind of my fault, so can't really blame anyone else. I mean, how long do you expect a fuel pump to work on a 25 year old car and god knows, if it has ever been changed? My only excuse is that this just happened out of nowhere, really....If I would've had any kind of obvious symptoms recently, then I would've known what to expect, but it just randomly died. Have to admit, the car sputtered and cut out on me in traffic few months ago, but then it started right back up and has been fine ever since, so I didn't really think much about that incident....Anyway, lesson learned. Here's my taxi below: Long story short, I'm a bit of an idiot for completely forgetting about the fact that after all the work that I've done on the car, I've missed the fuel pump and should've replaced it loooooong time ago to avoid this silly situation. Luckily, it was a nice sunny afternoon and I was in my local area driving around 20 mph when the car all of a sudden lost power, stopped reacting to the accelerator pedal and gradually came to a halt on a residential road. Tried starting it again, but it would just crank without firing up. I managed to push it away from the road and park it in a bay until a colleague of mine recovered me to a friend's house the next day. A bit of an inconvenience, but I appreciate that it could've been a lot worse, such as cutting out at 70 mph in the outside lane of a motorway at 3am in the morning, on the way to the airport! Touch wood, I always look after my cars well and such things don't normally happen with me, so this incident definitely took me by surprise. IMPORTANT: It's recommended to have 1/4 full tank of fuel or even less, if possible, when replacing the fuel pump, as it will make a lot easier removing the pump since you'll have a clear view of how it's fitted in the tank. The fuel pump on the E34 is located under the carpet, in the boot and there's a black cover held by 5 screws that you have to remove to access the pump. Once you've removed this cover, you'll see the top of the fuel pump assembly, which has a plug connected to it and 2 fuel hoses, as below: To remove the plug, you need to slide the metal bracket away from the connector while simultaneously pulling the plug outwards. As for the fuel hoses, unless you have the special tool for removing/locking those fuel hose clamps, it's advisable to have some replacement BMW jubilee clips/hose clamps (part number: 07129952104) before you start undoing those. Also have some cloths/towels ready, as some fuel will spill out and you don't want to make a mess. Make sure to clean up all the dust and dirt around the assembly, because once you've removed the cap, then it could all go into the fuel tank, which obviously you want to avoid. You'll have to gently tap the black cap with a flat screwdriver and a hammer in an anti-clockwise direction, because there's no way of undoing it by hand. Once you have unscrewed it, you'll have to move the fuel sender part of the assembly out of the way (the white part) and reach into the fuel tank with your hand to unclip the pump assembly from its bracket located in the tank. It is a bit fiddly, but this is the reason why you should have a minimum amount of fuel in the tank, because otherwise you won't be able to see how the pump is held in place or how to remove it. There are basically 2 tabs on the assembly that you push inwards and then pull the pump up from the bracket. See the photos below of the whole assembly removed to get a better idea. Notice those tabs on each side of the fuel pump assembly, which is what you squeeze inwards from the top to release the pump from its bracket in the tank. Also see how all the clips used around on the assembly are special hose clamps. There's no need to replace these, as long as you have the right tool for unlocking/securing them. Remember how everything is connected, so depending on which replacement fuel pump you get, you'll know how to correctly re-connect it all back together. The thinner/smaller stud on the pump is Positive (+) and the larger one is Negative (-). You won't have to worry about replacing the fuel pump filter separately, as usually they come together with replacement fuel pumps, so that's one less thing to worry about. However, if you don't have it, then make sure to get a new one, as it wouldn't make sense to go through all this work and re-use an old filthy filter. Depending on what manufacturer you go for when buying your new fuel pump, you may have to do a bit of extra work and it won't always be a straight swap-over. For example, the pump that was fitted on my car was made by Bosch and in the past, you could simply buy just the pump itself, without any other accessories, and replace it hassle-free. You would have to separate it from the inner housing, but that's about it - see the pics below. Checking the above part number, you can no longer buy this exact Bosch fuel pump, because it has been superseded by a newer unit, which comes complete with a plug on top and a wiring kit, meaning you'll have to mess around with the existing wiring of the pump assembly to crimp in new pins, so then you can push them into the new connector and plug it into the pump......Not the best scenario, but if I was to go with a Bosch replacement, then it would have to be part number 0580314123, as per the photo below: As you can see, it is supplied as a complete assembly with the filter and the inner/outer housing, along with 2 pins and a connector. Like I said earlier, the downside to this is that you'll have to modify the wiring, which I didn't want to do, so I decided to go for an alternative make. For your info, you can get an equivalent pump to the original Bosch one that was fitted on my car, i.e. with the studs on the top, but then it would be an inferior quality make and probably wouldn't last long. Luckily, another OEM alternative to Bosch is a Pierburg pump (part number: 7.21913.50.0) , which actually comes with studs on top, meaning it's just plug and play without any need to modify anything. It was readily available from EuroCarParts, so I got it straightaway and here's how it looks like: When I opened the box, the part number on the actual pump was different from what was on the label, but after checking the part numbers in the Pierburg's parts catalogue, everything matched fine - for your info, 7.21833.51 is an old number (stamped on the pump) and has been replaced by 7.21913.50.0 (on the box). After finally doing all the research and purchasing the right fuel pump, it was just a matter of putting everything back together and starting the car. You will have to re-use the outer part of the pump bracket, which fits over the new inner bracket of the replacement pump. There's only one right way of fitting it, so you can't really get it wrong - just pay attention to how it's installed, when you are removing it from the old pump. Then you'll have to re-connect the wires to their studs (positive/negative) and secure them with washers/nuts. One hose goes on the pump that supplies the fuel into the engine and the other one connects to the outer bracket, which is the return fuel line. Again, pay attention not to confuse them and replace the hose clamps, as required. All done, ready to be fitted: The installation is the reverse of removal, so make sure that the black part of the pump assembly properly clicks into place in the fuel tank, then carefully put the fuel sender back in as well and install the black cap with a few light taps of a flat screwdriver + hammer. Secure the fuel hoses, re-connect the plug and you are done! Started the car, it ran perfectly fine and I haven't had any problems since. Still can't believe that this actually happened to me, considering all the things that I've taken care of, but like I mentioned earlier, totally forgot about the fuel pump. Funny enough, I did replace it as a precaution on my previous car, an E30, but for some reason it slipped past me on the E34. Well, what can you do? Have to say that I've noticed a significant difference of how the car pulls away and gathers speed, so it seems like the old pump did work, but it was definitely weak. It's now a lot more responsive and smoother and there's no hesitation in the lower revs. A happy ending overall. Apart from this, not much happened lately. Still haven't fitted the replacement second-hand rear window regulators that I bought back in August, so that most likely will be the next job, but otherwise if anything else comes up, you'll be first to know. Thanks for reading.
  5. 4 points

    What did you do to your E39 today ?

    Routine wash and replaced one of the door kick plate. Working with Mr Dennis Cooper to do a audio overhaul, watch this space! Just realised from the pictures my driver side headlight isn't working...time to check it out!
  6. 3 points

    F11 Steering Wheel worn leather

    All done for 100 pounds
  7. 3 points
    An update for you chaps, the project is a non starter, I picked up a full DG set with all the rubbers, guides and seals today for £300, well pleased ! However, I am confident it can be done DIY if the right bits can be found.
  8. 3 points
    There are just two things I wish our 525d had - a manual gearbox...and a petrol engine!
  9. 3 points
    Land barge all fettled
  10. 3 points
    Front alloys off today and front brake calipers painted Hammerite satin silver; rear wheels will be off tomorrow during the brake overhaul, so will paint the rear calipers and brake disc hats satin black tomorrow, whilst the 7 is on the ramps (smaller discs/pads, so hiding their features) Plus will be fitting 12mm black Bimecc spacers on the rears too. Brake overhaul & other parts all laid out in the garage ready to be boxed and into the car tomorrow, before off to my pals to get it all fitted, items are as below: Front Mtec 348mm C Hook discs with EBC Yellowstuff pads Rear OEM discs (already fitted; 150miles before I bought the car, so they're as new) with OEM spec Mintex pads (to be fitted) Red HEL braided brake lines all round Motul Dot 5.1 brake fluid Meyle brake pad wear sensors front & rear Bimecc 12mm hubcentric spacers all round (silver front, black on rears) Moog drop links all round Will get pics up of it all tomorrow
  11. 3 points

    E39 530i Sapphire Black (GBS Project)

    Thought it was about time I started a projects blog! My E39 was bought from @d_a_n1979 who took care of it at no expense and hoping to carry on the great work. Next on the to do list is to do a audio overhaul with the help of @DennisCooper who has been super helpful, so watch this space! Few initial pictures:
  12. 3 points
    60 mile trip around the M25 to Enfield this morning to get the cluster pixels sorted by Baris of Carphonics. The top line was not too bad but the lower one was impossible to read. Top bloke, highly recommended.
  13. 3 points

    top up coolant or change?

    N47 is unaffected because the timing chain breaks before the EGR cooler leaks
  14. 3 points
    Here's the Mercs detailing video by a mate who did the ceramic coating on it.
  15. 2 points

    E60 Petrol engine buying advice

    Here she is, collected tonight, had a great 60 mile drive home. Seriously impressed!
  16. 2 points
  17. 2 points
    I always refer to them as a Nissan Puke.
  18. 2 points
    Similarly if it's an auto in sports mode, using the paddles can be fun. But a twisty Scottish B road in a manual 520d is not fun at all. It's like mixing concrete with a wooden spoon.
  19. 2 points

    Winter oil 5w40 or 5w60?

    I mean... I'm fairly sure
  20. 2 points
    So you missed the target.
  21. 2 points
    Doesn't matter if the driver's got no fucking brains and there will always be some for whom the law only applies to the 'little people', not them.
  22. 2 points
    Boo! Do you never learn DIEsels are bad. Good to hear from you.
  23. 2 points

    Soft close door problem.

    I've fitted sc to mine, big job that was part of a few others and overall took ages, fitting the wiring is a bit of a pain! Anyway, last job was to fit the actual sc modules and the last one to go in was the drivers. It had a broken spring in it. I managed to work it and bent the remainder of the spring so it works again, took some effort as it's not easy to get into them (especially when tired and it's the early hours...)! You can just see the spring in the picture: All the other units were quiet but when I gently shook this one you could hear something moving inside. I thought nothing of it until it was fitted (I thought it pretty reasonble for a little something to be a bit loose when it's not been powered up for months!), then I had to quickly learn how they work! From my experience they work independently of anything else in the car, they're not linked to anything and cannot be coded (through the obd port). They are powered off the 'sleep activated live'- ie their power switches off after about 15mins (found this out showing off after leaving a door open for ages, it didn't work! Opened another door that 'awoke' the car and we were back in business ). They only have 12v and earth connections, no 'bus' connection at all. I really doubt that disconnecting the battery will make any difference. Does something sound a bit loose if you 'shake' the door? Listen carefully when shaking it.. I'd say that to find out you'll have to remove the lock and motor assembly. Have a good read of this: Soft close II.pdf Look at the picture on page 6 of the pdf or this one: Once the first lock stage has taken place, a switch closes and get's things going. A motor winds and pulls a 'bike type brake cable' that pulls lever #5 down. This 'see saws' and pushes lever #4 up. #4 pushes and thus rotates the catch (or rotary striker as they call it) #1 until it latches at the second lock stage (ie door properly shut) and closes another switch, telling the motor to stop and reverse a bit. For me, it was a broken spring between #5 and #4. #4 has to pressing gently against the catch (#1) . It has to be sprung to allow the door/catch to lock when shut normally (ie not sc). Whilst the spring was broken, #4 wasn't pressing gently and couldn't push and rotate #1. Motor moved, but sounded a little different - it was getting to the end of the cable's travel and labouring for a moment before relaxing. Hth.
  24. 2 points

    What did you do to your E60/61 today?

    I replaced the rear pads and decided to tidy up the calipers at the same time. Also, sprayed the lock nuts black.
  25. 2 points

    Restart E39 530d Sport Touring

    It has been a busy couple of weeks! The new lines for the turbo and HP pump turned up, and the wiring was complete, so the engine and its new box went back in. Engine mounts looked ok – annoyingly, they are not, but that will have to wait now. I sourced an E60/61 gearbox mount, it sits at the right height and the front four of the six mounting bolts almost line up with the manual mounts. With a slight expansion of the holes (not the webbing) it was in. The rear two holes sit over the step for the auto mounts (auto mounts sit slightly higher in the tunnel ), I am making some adapter plates up to allow the two rear bolts to engage. For now it’s only four of the six bolts holding the box in, but this is not too concerning given the original mounts. The engine had an oil leak from the around vacuum pump. I wasn’t sure if this was the pump seal, or the rocker cover, so I changed both, and was pleasantly surprised how clean the engine was internally. I also changed the rocker cover for a later M57N version, these have additional webbing at the mount points and an extra bolt hole for the later inlet manifolds. With all that back on it was time to refresh the cooling system. I’ve done away with the EGR, so removed the EGR cooling, and swapped it out for the manual pipe work, which looks so much cleaner. While I was there it got a fresh set of belts. Luckily the pulleys all felt fine, as the did the pump. I also fitted a M57N2 inlet manifold, these are slightly larger, and supposedly less prone to splitting. I had it ultrasonicly cleaned by a marine diesel place, turned out much better that I could do with solvents. These manifolds use a different type of 3 bar MAP sensor, 13627792260, which mounts on the top of the manifold. It should be noted that the wiring configuration for this sensor is different to the E39; wire 1 = supply, wire 2 = ground, wire 3 = signal (signal and supply are inverse on the E39). With that lot done, I took it to Enda to get everything coded in correctly. Cruise control now works in 3rd, 4th, 5th, and 6th! Reverse lights and PDC work (They did not initially, which turned out to be my inability to count pin numbers…). I went with the weighted E46 knob, 25117896886, combined with the E60/61 short shift, 25117546373, which feels great. Clutch is unsurprisingly heavy and loud.