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  1. Yesterday
  2. I'm looking to get another m5,if anyone is thinking of selling please send me a pm thanks
  3. Hi thanks for your input. The actual message on the screen is " tow bar not locked". I've just tried holding the button but that still hasn't fixed it. It does try and move and there are no grinding or grating noises but it doesn't come out. Does that suggest the AHK module needs to be replaced? The guy that has been working on it for me is convinced that the hall sensor is where the problem lies?
  4. Another update to further the knowledge of these swivel tow bars. It turns out the root cause of all my problems with the tow bar were water that had gathered in the right side of the boot as the result of a grommet letting water in. Several copper communications wires became badly corroded and amongst other erroneous warnings the tow bar gave a "tow bar electrics" warning which I regrettably ignored and went instead for the cog replacement option. As I said in my earlier post the cogs turned out to be fine so I have one available if anyone needs one. After having all of the corroded wires replaced and several coding corrections carried out to undo the erroneous warnings affecting other things such as lights and adaptive drive, I still have a tow bar that will not function properley. We can get it to pop out and to pop back by short circuiting the system. We can get it to pop out and stay out so we know the motor is fine. The problem now is that the tow bar appears to need re-initialising and neither BMW or any tow bar specialists are able to do that apparently because they don't have the software. I also get nine bongs and the warning symbol on start up which we simply cannot get rid of and which is very annoying. I have had contact with over a dozen westaflia agents who are unable to help me willing though they were. And BMW main dealers as always just want to replace the lot at somewhere around £1800. If I replace the working tow bar with another either new or used I cannot be certain that it will be initialised and integrate happily with the cars control module and cas system. I can park the tow ball in the out position which is some use but I can't get rid of the warnings. If I could get hold of a used one off say a front end crash damaged car replacement would be worth a try. It is most unsatisfactory that a perfectly good mechanically functioning tow bar can't be used because of a coding/sensor blocking. I haven't given up yet but I'm running out of options.
  5. Been helping Dad ( Carl - E34) clean paint and fill the his LSD differential - Cleaned and painted - Half painted Painted filled and ready to be fitted S.Butler Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. I have the same on mine. I did come across a post on a US forum about a non return valve/ plunger type assembly in the top of the tank which gets gummed up and sticks resulting in water siphoning out of the overflow although haven't had time to investigate.
  7. I don't remember paying £20-£30 for a BMW pilot bearing but seeing as BMminiparts are no longer doing parts to order I will just get an aftermarket one. Still can't see how the pilot bearing would be cause of all this noise and odd behaviour, it was not square on the shaft but the bearing feels fine. Seeing as you only need the reset tool if you don't preload the pressure plate with a bearing puller or similar it will only be needed if the pilot bearing gets stuck on the output shaft again so I am really unlikely to use it again. Can't see there being much of a market for used ones either. I will just a new clutch kit. The DMF looks a bit blue in that picture as there is a very blue LED work lamp illuminating it, it is very similar in colour to the pressure plate. I could not feel any scoring on either clutch mating surfaces. According to this Luk document you only need to replace the DMF if it is blue around the rivets: https://www.scribd.com/document/327030548/DMF-Failure-Diagnosis-Visual-Inspection. So as I have not found conclusive evidence of what caused the issue I will have to put it back together with a new clutch kit, pilot bearing and coupling and take it from there. Worst case scenario I could always go back in and replace the DMF.
  8. Am i seeing some blueing on your dmf? If thats blueish then its overheated for some reason, there is also uneven wear on you pressure plate and on the rear of the dmf that looks like a score mark which could be the shavings in the bellhousing.
  9. I have used radioworld bafles and they are just right .it fixes with 3 screws to the door . I only had had to drill 1 extra hole in the door , the other 2 holes matched the holes on the door where oem bafle was fixed .
  10. Guys . New Xtron unit has Marshmellow 6.0 OS but Android version 7.0 is allready out . Dos that meen that 6.0 wont be supported soon same as 5.1.1 ? Wonder if its possible to upgrade OS same as mobile phones ?
  11. My mistake. Maybe this was a Davidoli car. Anyway shows prices for these has gone up
  12. Sill I would buy a new one to be honest as opposed to cutting out of out this, it's just a bit of an awkward long thing to cut out and post No window switches sorry Should have both, which one is the low tone? £ 10 posted No, standard radio I have some, but not in Glacier green, though I need to check on that, definitely got oxford green ones
  13. apart from a shot spigot bearing and prop donut it looks reasonable, the oil on the back of the flywheel might be from the engine. if the bearing is anything like the older ones a standard £5 SKF bearing can be used instead of a £20-30 BMW one.
  14. When mine went I found that they would leak occasionally and I could not work out why. I then noticed that they leaked only when I parked on the other side of the road, facing the same way. It turned out the difference in camber was enough to not make it leak on one side of the road whilst they deflated on the other. This is because they fold over and sometimes the leak would be covered up. I would suggest that you inspect them, if the rubber is perished and cracked then it is likely that you have a leak and if not it won't be long till you have one. I ignored this issue until they failed on the M4, was not a pleasant experience. Glad I replaced the missing bumpstop...
  15. I changed the thermostat and while the fan etc was off I changed the exhaust cps. What a bloody palaver though! The fan and shroud were a right bitch to get off, and the whole job took me 4 times longer than it should. Oh and I broke the shroud! Sodding thing! Still, te car goes a lot better than it did and doesn't run cold. And the header tank isn't flopping around too much...
  16. Hi chaps, had a read of the german doc, read it as M5T in grey and with alcantara trim etc and 105kms. this wasn't mine, mine was black Schwarz, black leather, 1993 assigned plate and a five speed. so believe my ex car is still in Scotland where it was welcome by keen enthusiast as a keeper. hth
  17. I only got 4.5 teeth of clearance and about 1mm of sideplay so it good on that front. I checked the back of the DMF and found some evidence of oil leaking, but I don't think it should be cause for concern. What do you think? See pictures below. I have also attached the picture of the metallic particles in the bellhousing, damage to the propshaft coupling and mating surfaces. There is some discoloration on the mating surfaces, is this normal? There are self adjusting tools available used fire installation/technical but I am not aware of one that resets an incorrectly removed pressure plate. Edit: I have found a SAC rest tool however it is £100. BGS Reset Tool for BMW SAC Clutch (Art. 8283) Pressure plate mating surface: Rear of DMF: Bellhousing swarf: Rear of DMF 2: Propshaft coupling: DMF mating surface:
  18. i had the ibs connected and disconected it to see if it was the problem and my car is the 6 smeed manual so no light like the auto , can you recomend anyone in north wales as i am getting fed up with it
  19. 9V is pretty flat. So whether you lock the car or not it drains a battery overnight. That means something is drawing a lot of current (like 3A) all the time, or the car is being prevented from going to sleep. When the car is unlocked it will normally draw 10A to 20A off the battery for 16 mins then go to sleep and reduce to under 80mA. If you open a door, or the bonnet or operate anything the 16 min countdown is reset. You can see if the car is asleep if it's an Auto because the orange LED next to Park goes out. In my opinion people often disconnect the IBS for the wrong reasons. It detects problems and tells the car (via error codes) what the cause is. People disconnect them to get rid of the errors - which of course it does - but the faults remain. You could do with your IBS connected to assist with locating the fault.
  20. What cam did you go with and put some pics on.
  21. Awesome spec! Bet you can't wait. I looked into 530e tech which is very impressive but out of my price bracket as a private buyer. Look forward to hearing all about it when you get it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  22. I had a chance to do that reset procedure today, don't think it worked lol It's now stuck on 999999 What do I try now, replace the clocks? Rob.
  23. Thanks, really useful document. I set up an account over here: https://www.repxpert.co.uk/en to get the values below for my DMF. Will go and check them now. Max. Clearance Angle [Degree] 19 Number of teeth (finding the max. clearance angle) 6 Max. Sideplay [mm] 1,6
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    • I'm looking to get another m5,if anyone is thinking of selling please send me a pm thanks
    • Hi thanks for your input. The actual message on the screen is " tow bar not locked". I've just tried holding the button but that still hasn't fixed it. It does try and move and there are no grinding or grating noises but it doesn't come out. Does that suggest the AHK module needs to be replaced? The guy that has been working on it for me is convinced that the hall sensor is where the problem lies?
    • Another update to further the knowledge of these swivel tow bars. It turns out the root cause of all my problems with the tow bar were water that had gathered in the right side of the boot as the result of a grommet letting water in. Several copper communications wires became badly corroded and amongst other erroneous warnings the tow bar gave a "tow bar electrics" warning which I regrettably ignored and went instead for the cog replacement option. As I said in my earlier post the cogs turned out to be fine so I have one available if anyone needs one. After having all of the corroded wires replaced and several coding corrections carried out to undo the erroneous warnings affecting other things such as lights and adaptive drive, I still have a tow bar that will not function properley. We can get it to pop out and to pop back by short circuiting the system. We can get it to pop out and stay out so we know the motor is fine. The problem now is that the tow bar appears to need re-initialising and neither BMW or any tow bar specialists are able to do that apparently because they don't have the software. I also get nine bongs and the warning symbol on start up which we simply cannot get rid of and which is very annoying. I have had contact with over a dozen westaflia agents who are unable to help me willing though they were. And BMW main dealers as always just want to replace the lot at somewhere around £1800. If I replace the working tow bar with another either new or used I cannot be certain that it will be initialised and integrate happily with the cars control module and cas system. I can park the tow ball in the out position which is some use but I can't get rid of the warnings. If I could get hold of a used one off say a front end crash damaged car replacement would be worth a try. It is most unsatisfactory that a perfectly good mechanically functioning tow bar can't be used because of a coding/sensor blocking. I haven't given up yet but I'm running out of options.    
    • Been helping Dad ( Carl - E34) fill the his LSD differential getting it ready to fit S,Butler
    • I have the same on mine. I did come across a post on a US forum about a non return valve/ plunger type assembly in the top of the tank which gets gummed up and sticks resulting in water siphoning out of the overflow although haven't had time to investigate.